This month's edition of the international food rag Saveur has a piece by food writer John T. Edge reviewing 7 US-doughnut shops worth visiting. We were happy to see our local favorite The Doughnut Plant on the list, and even happier when Edge referred to Plant-founder Mark Isreal as a "doughnut Don Quixote."
Also on the list:
Butler's Colonial Donut House - Westport, Massachusetts
Started by a former Dunkin employee and his wife, Butler's is best known for its Long Johns - yeast-raised rectangles filled with black raspberry jelly and covered in real whipped cream.
The Donut Man - Glendora, California
This roadside stand run by Donut Man Jim Nakano churns out raspberry and peach varieties made with freshly picked fruit.
Shipley Do-Nuts - Oxford, Mississippi (although a Texas-based chain)
Simple yeast-raised doughnuts which Edge feels have the consistency of Wonderbread - Blognut visited their store in downtown San Antonio last year.
Tex Drive-In - Honokaa, Big Island, Hawaii
Hawaiian drive-in specializing in malasadas - holeless Portuguese doughnuts.
Top Pot Doughnuts - Seattle, Washington
Started by two Seattle brothers who have acquired trademark rights to the classic Doughnut Corporation of America, Top Pot serves glamorous doughnuts like the Valley Girl (lemon-filled with lemon icing) and the Pink Feather Boa (rose-colored, vanilla-iced with flaked coconut).
Zingerman's Roadshow - Ann Arbor, Michigan
This trailer-based operation serves lemon zest and nutmeg-spiced doughnuts based on a traditional Dutch recipe.
John T. Edge's book Donuts: An American Passion comes out this month (published by Putnam) as part of a 4-part series "celebrating American food icons." Blognut can't wait.
Thanks to Dr. Rod for letting us know about the Donut piece in Saveur.
20 comments:
Word up, Blognut. Saveur has nothing on you.
For me, the donut died when Schultz's Cider Mill in Armonk, NY, closed down a few years ago. Their donuts were transcendent. My wife would scoff at me when I rhapsodized about them - until I drove her up there one day. She now mourns with me.
Has anyone ever mentioned Schultz's on Blognut before?
Never made it to Schultz's - but we sympathize with you. Our favorite donuts come from The Carter Mountain apple orchard in Charlottesville, Virginia. It's hard to beat a warm, freshly-made apple-cider donut. I'm sure it won't be the same, but if you're ever in Virginia try them out - maybe they'll ease your longing for Schultz's.
I can attest to Butler's, they are fantastic. The whipped cream is amazing there, it makes your breakfast seem more like a dessert. I'm all in favor of that!
too bad you missed ma's donuts in new bedford,mass. hands down the best glazed donut EVERR!!!!
Eric M. you are so right about Schultz's Cider Mill in Armonk, NY...I just found out today that it was sold and is now a new homes development. I used to go there as a kid with my family to buy pumpkins, apple cider and fresh doughnuts...such a sad sad end of a dream that was reality
You've got to try Stans in Westwood Village, L.A., CA. Simply the best!
I use to work at Schultz's Cider Mill while in high school (1994 - 1998). I can remember those brisk fall mornings where the line would run 50 deep out the store. People from literally all over the world would come, and most would make the 1 hour drive from NYC. Ron Howard was a regular there, as were a few other area all-stars. We only served three types, plain, cinnamon/sugar, and powder sugar. The best part was the donut machine, probably from around the 1940s. I would make the dough and pour it into the back of the machine that would "punch" the donuts into the 10 foot track of hot oil. About half way down, it would automatically flip the donut over. It was a family run business and every year they would go to there house in Perth Australia for the whole month of August. I miss that place!!!!!
Butler's Colonial in Westport MA is the best of the ones mentioned. Believe it or not, there is another great donut in Westport at Coffee An' (but Butler's is best).
Top Pot in Seattle, it's got a lot going for it, but it's a heavy donut.
And if you go all the way to Ann Arbor, Zingerman's is fantastic for deli stuff, but get your doughnuts at Demo's way out on Stadium (yes, it's also a felafel place, the donuts are amazing!)
(I wrote the last comment too... forgot to say...)
Yes, BTW, I remember Ma's Donuts! They were good.
As to apple cider donuts... yeah, there are great apple cider donuts, but I want to point out, it's easy to make delicious variations on fried dough and batter honey-dipt straight from the hot fat. What is difficult is to make something that is still delicious an hour or two later, and that's the mark of the great donuts.
Light, airy, not greasy, not too sweet, not too heavy, just perfect.
I miss Schultz's, too. It was my grandfather's cider mill and my aunt and uncle ran the donut shop. Unfortunately, none of us 3rd generationers were able to buy out our parents, so it went to the developer.
Those donuts were the best. No cream puff will ever hold a candle to those. We even froze a few and thawed them out, heated them up and they were a little slice of heaven.
Grandpa was a workaholic before there were workaholics. He was 91 when it shut down in 2002, and he passed the next year. That place was keeping him alive.
Someone bought that donut machine, so its out there somewhere, pumping out donuts, bringing joy to the masses.
Cider Donuts and our new creation - Cape Cod Cranberry Apple Cider Donuts - we are making these on Cape Cod. Check out our NPR news story on Elspeth Hay's local food blog under Cider Donuts. We are the Great Cape Baking Company 774-521-3300
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